L'Ébauchoir
Bistro — Quinze-Vingts (Paris)
About
L'Ébauchoir is an iconic Parisian bistro in the 12th arrondissement, nestled near the Aligre market. Operating since the 90s, this restaurant embodies bistro authenticity with reinvented traditional French cuisine. Chef Thomas Dufour and manager Thierry Bruneau offer seasonal dishes crafted with high-quality local products, such as poached eggs with asparagus, pan-seared foie gras, and lamb saddle. The meticulously curated wine list highlights natural wines and artisanal producers. The warm atmosphere, retro decor with wall frescoes and vintage zinc bar attract a crowd of young bobos and regulars. A convivial spot where refined cuisine and friendly service converge.
Mentions
L'Ebauchoir - Paris 12
Suivez-nous : Mon compteEspace pro 1. Accueil 2. Lieux 3. L'Ebauchoir L'EBAUCHOIR Catégorie : Restaurants > Française INFORMATIONS PRATIQUES Lieu 43, rue Citeaux 75012 Paris 12 +33143424931 Calcul d'itinéraire Infos d’accessibilité Site web http://lebauchoir.canalblog.com/albums/le_restaurant/index.html Afficher la carte AGENDA _ Publicité • Communiquez sur votre événement • Référencez un établissement • FAQ / Contact Manifeste • Mentions légales • Paramètres de confidentialité • Mon compte • Sortir de Paris Sortir à Paris, partenaire de l'Office de Tourisme de Paris : Recevez gratuitement le meilleur des sorties à Paris et en Île de France avec notre newsletter, inscription ci-dessous : > MétéoCette semaineCe week-endBons plans
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Les adresses du guide Lebey
LES MEILLEURS RESTAURANTS DU 12ÈME ARRONDISSEMENT Bistrot JOUVENCE Un des meilleurs bistrots de la ville Superbe écrin pour ce bistrot que cette ancienne pharmacie dont on a intelligemment préservé boiseries, carrelages et monte-charge à poulie, simplement réhaussé de tables et d'un comptoir en marbre 172 bis, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine 75012, Paris Découvrir le Bistrot Restaurant TABLE Un des meilleurs restaurants de la ville ♥︎ "La cuisine c'est de la science, mais ça ne doit pas se voir" estime le bon docteur Verjus (médecin de formation), et sa prescription a de quoi guérir bien des maux. 3, rue de Prague 75012, Paris Découvrir le Restaurant Bistrot AMARANTE Un très bon bistrot Voilà une adresse qu'on entend peu mais qui fait des heureux. Et pour cause, la grande timidité de son chef Christophe Philippe ne doit pas y être pour rien. 4, rue Biscornet 75012, Paris Découvrir le Bistrot Bistrot AUBERGE LE QUINCY Un très bon bistrot On se pince : le monde change et l'auberge du Quincy demeure. Toujours pas de CB. Encore épinglées au mur, les pulpeuses créatures de Wolinski qui feraient aujourd'hui bondir les comités #metoo. 28, avenue Ledru-Rollin 75012, Paris Découvrir le Bistrot Restaurant COTTE RÔTI (LE) Un bon restaurant Ce restaurant avait une âme, celle de son fondateur Nicolas Michel, passé chez Marc Meneau, Guy Martin et Bernard Pacaud. 1, rue de Cotte 75012, Paris Découvrir le Restaurant Bistrot ÉBAUCHOIR (L') Un bon bistrot Une institution qui colle parfaitement à l'histoire du quartier et de ses artisans qui avaient ici leur rond de serviette. 43-45, rue de Cîteaux 75012, Paris Découvrir le Bistrot Restaurant RESTAURANT PASSERINI Un bon restaurant ♥︎ Ce ne sont pas les tables italiennes qui manquent à Paris. D’autant que la liste ne semble pas prête d’en rester là, si l’on en juge l’engouement des Français pour la cuisine transalpine. 65, rue Traversière 75012, Paris Découvrir le Restaurant Restaurant TROU GASCON (AU) Un bon restaurant ♥︎ Fief basco-béarnais pendant plusieurs décennies d'Alain Dutournier, cette auberge cossue a changé fin 2014 de mise et de philosophie. 40, rue Taine 75012, Paris Découvrir le Restaurant Restaurant VIRTUS Un bon restaurant ♥︎ Rue de Cotte, Chiho Kanzaki et Marcelo di Giacomo ont enfin trouvé les moyens de leurs ambitions. 29, rue Cotte 75012, Paris Découvrir le Restaurant Bistrot ZYGOMATES (LES) Un bon bistrot Les Zygomates campent aux antipodes des modes éphémères : c’est un restaurant de quartier, situé dans une rue tranquille de l'arrondissement, fréquenté par une clientèle d’habitués. 7, rue de Capri 75012, Paris Découvrir le Bistrot Restaurant AMIS DE MESSINA (LES) Adresse engageante avec sa terrasse estivale, sa cuisine ouverte et son service à l’italienne qui expédie dans la joie et la bonne humeur des assiettes d'inspiration siciliennes: antipasti de produ 204, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine 75012, Paris Découvrir le Restaurant Restaurant TRAIN BLEU (LE) Dans ce Monopoly gastronomique auquel prennent désormais part les gares, la gare de Lyon a eu la chance de passer par la case départ avant les autres comme d'avoir pour partenaire le chef Michel Ro place Louis-Armand Gare de Lyon 75012, Paris Découvrir le Restaurant
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pro bistro: l'ébauchoir, 75012
It occurred to me the other evening, during my first visit to 12ème neighborhood bistro l'Ebauchoir with my visiting friends M and A, that upon entering we had effectively rendered it impossible to evaluate the restaurant's normal service standards, by ordering an ostentatiously excellent bottle of Champagne like it was nothing. It was M's first night in Paris, where he'd been flown after winning a blind-tasting contest sponsored by Ruinart. He was celebrating. It was Anselme Selosse's "Version Originale" Blanc de Blancs, dégorgée 2009. I got over my micro-journalistic quandary pretty quickly. And regardless - if the extenuating minor-league baller circumstances can be overlooked - I suspect that l'Ebauchoir's sterling service would have been just as sincere had we ordered a Loire pétillant. L'Ebauchoir is that rare thing in Paris: an efficient, well-run, philosophically-sound restaurant, replete with a sharp, expansive natural wine list. Co-owner and wine director Thierry Bruneau spent 15 years as a sommelier in the states, most notably at Citronelle in Washington, DC. I gather that during this time he absorbed certain habits of hospitality and rational restaurateurism. It's perceptible in the promptness of just about everything, but also in the construction of the wine list, which displays none of the grab-bag, stab-in-the-dark tomfoolery that characterizes many Parisian natural wine lists, even the likeable ones, from Le Chateaubriand to Aux Deux Amis to Les Fines Geueles. The list at l'Ebauchoir feels brilliantly considered. One example is the focus of the sparkling wine section. L'Ebauchoir's list contains the aforementioned Selosse bottling (about which more shortly) at a very reasonable 120€, then another natural grower champagne at just less than half that, and then a few Loire sparklers in the 20€-something range. It's a precise sampling of French sparkling wine, containing something for all occasions, and no more. Critically, there are few Champagne lovers alive who wouldn't be extremely satisfied with Selosse's "Version Originale." A three-vintage blend of Chardonnay that spends 42 months in bottle before disgorgement, it's markedly less oxidative than his "Initiale" bottling, though the yeastiness and intensity yielded by the bottle age and minimal dosage of the "Version Originale" might deliver a brief shock to anyone expecting a creamy or sumptuous style of Blanc de Blancs. This is stone-hewingly chiseled Chardonnay, with a strong emphasis on mineral, scallion, and lemongrass. A sort of persistent electric citrus peel effect. While we caught up on the two years since we'd last met, M and I were helpless to keep from pausing, every two sips or so, and marveling at the sheer craft of the wine. Of even more note on l'Ebauchoir's wine list is the Burgundy section - among the most well-selected and egalitarian I've seen in Paris. No one needs me to explain that good Burgundy is justifiably very expensive. Natural Burgundy - by the likes of Domaine Derain, J.C. Rateau, Emmanuel Giboulot, along with biodynamic heavyweights like Domaine Leroy - is both expensive and somewhat limited, as a field,* with the result that the region is either under-represented or not represented at all on the lists of many Paris natural wine bistros. Nevertheless M. Brumeau has corralled a lovely list of predominantly northern Burgundies at l'Ebauchoir, most falling between the 30€-50€ range. We went for a 2008 Olivier Guyot Marsannay "Les Favières," on the basis of M. Bruneau's advice that it had a little more matière to it than a similarly priced 2009 Monthélie that had caught my eye. M and I came around to appreciating the advice - but it took some time. The 2008 "Les Favières," sourced from lower-lying 25-30 year old vines, was as comprehensively closed as Paris in mid-August. In retrospect we should have simply asked for a decanter. Only about halfway through the bottle did any fruit whatsoever begin to show amid the black tannins and trip-wire acidity: some blackcurrant, some plum, some peppery notes. The effect was like picking out the loveable sonic details, on repeat listens, of the Talking Heads' claustrophobic, paranoiac Fear of Music. The well-sourced bistro comfort food at l'Ebauchoir is as inviting and populist as the wine list, but notably less acid. In fact, every dish lacked acid, from a sweet duck foie gras starter to some marinated sardines to sôt-l'y-laisse, which exotic term refers to certain tender nuggets of chicken found between the thighs and ribcage. Tender, yes, but still essentially chicken nuggets, and not appreciably enlivened by such firecracker accompaniments as peas and carrots. It's true that, as an American with a background in Italian restaurants, I seem to find many dishes over here lacking in acid, salt, and general va-va-voom. But in a restaurant that shows such cosmopolitan savvy with wine and service, it's almost endearing that the kitchen stumbles only in being too genially small-fry French. L'Ebauchoir succeeds nonetheless, a perfect go-to for anyone with an anniversary thirst and a weeknight appetite. * Though seemingly less so in Rateau's case, as his basic bottlings are available in Paris bio-marché chain Naturalia. ** In English they're known as "chicken oysters," a less preferable term, in my mind, for sounding vaguely redneck and testicular. L'Ebauchoir 43, rue Citeaux 75012 Paris Metro: Faidherbe - Chaligny Tel: 01 43 42 49 31 Map Related Links: Nearby 11ème / 12ème coverage: Selosse: Guyot: l'Ebauchoir: A surprisingly substantive article on l'Ebauchoir @ Paris-Bistro
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